Seasonal baking

This month has been all about baking! While the weather is cold, there’s nothing better than a comforting slice of a delicious cake. I’ve been going through a series of my favourite recipes, including various chocolaty incarnations, coffee and walnut, sticky toffee sponge and a (quite sharp) lemon drizzle. But I’m getting a little tired of these standard – albeit delicious – offerings and want something new.

But where to start gathering inspiration? Thankfully I was given the chance to have an indulgent chat with baking guru Lilly Vanilli to get some insight into how she creates her delicious and unusual recipes, plus who her food heroes are. Here’s the interview, plus a recipe completely inspired by her.

Anna-Marie: Has your upbringing in Saudi Arabia and travels across the world influenced the flavours you use?

Lilly Vanilli: Yes definitely, I always adapt what I’m baking depending on what’s in season locally and the exciting thing about my current projects (bakeries in Abu Dhabi & India) is the incredible array of new flavours and ingredients I get to experiment and work with. Some of those I can bring back with me (like the spices).

AM: You’re well known for your unique flavour combinations – do you have any current favourites?
LV: Seasonal produce is generally the starting point for any menu/recipe I put together. Over the colder monthsI’m loving sweet potato, parsnip & beetroot for cakes as well as apple& rosemary. You can also look to the store cupboard more for spices & I generally make everything with warmer, heartier flavours and more booze!

AM: There’s a generation of young bakers looking to you as inspiration, but do you have any food heroes?
LV: I have lots of food heroes past and present; I always look to Antoine Careme, the godfather of the pièces montée (grad-scale edible centrepieces). I’m currently starting a new off shoot project with the architect & designer Jordan Hodgson (http://jordanhodgson.com/) with the working title Fierce Montée – in which we create stunning edible centrepieces which look to the past for inspiration but are recreated in a very modern style. Using techniques such as 3D printing, for example.

AM: What snippet of advice would you give to others who want to – as you did – turn their passion for baking in to a business?
LV: Focus you time, money and energy on becoming the best you can be in what you want to do. Find your niche that way. Put all you resources into this rather than focusing on PR/marketing/packaging/press. If you do enough of a good thing these things will take care of themselves. There are free tools like social media and word of mouth to support you once you’ve got something worth talking about.

 

AM: Finally, what are you working on at the moment?
LV: I've been working with Cadbury Crispello to create a simple but visually stunning dinner party piece. The idea was to re-invent the traditional croquembouche, creating a fully edible tower. The idea came about because Cadbury Crispello pieces are easy to build with - shaped like little chocolate bricks, but the wafer and mousse centre is actually very light so they stack nicely.

 

Recipe of the month

Taking Lilly’s ideas around seasonality and spice into account, I’ve made this great walnut and beetroot cake – which was originally a carrot cake. It’s delicious, moist and very sweet!

Ingredients

· 450g flour

· 2 tsps baking powder

· 300ml sunflower or rapeseed oil

· 1 tsp ground nutmeg

· 1 tsp cinnamon

· 150g light brown sugar

· 125g muscavado sugar

· 150g chopped walnuts

· 350g cooked and grated beetroot

· 3 large eggs

 

Icing & decoration

· 225g mascarpone

· 100g icing sugar

· 2 tsp lemon juice

· Natural red food colouring

· Large handful of walnut halves

Grease and line an 18cm cake tin and preheat the oven to 180C.

 
Sift together the flour, baking powder and spices. Next, add the sugar to the dry mix before adding the oil, combine. Add the eggs one-by-on whilst stirring. Next add the beetroot and chopped walnuts, and stir together. The mixture is very thick – so don’t be alarmed! Pour into the tin and bake for an hour.

Place the cooked cake onto a wire rack. While you wait for it to cool, make the icing. You simply need to mix the ingredients (bar the walnuts) together until you have a smooth and shiny consistency.

Once is have completely cooled, cut the cake into two rounds. Generously ice the top of one and sandwich together before icing the top and sides of the cake with a palette knife. Decorate with the walnuts round the outside edge of the cake.

Dairy indulgences

Beau fromage

If you are what you eat, I would defiantly be a Camembert ….or maybe a Gouda….well I’d be some sort of cheese. A good cheese board is my favourite way to finish off a meal, and cheese and crackers (with a side of some chutney) is a regular after work snack for me. To be honest, when it comes to cheese I’m not fussy – I’m yet to try some that I don’t like. I love creamy goat’s cheese, powerful blues, creamy soft-rinds...you name it, I’ll love it.



My current favourite is an Ossau-Iraty, a ewes milk cheese made in the French Pyrénées. It is aged for around 90 days which gives it a nutty, yet sweet and buttery flavour. It’s widely available, and although mine came from Waitrose (www.ocado.com/product/48985011) you’ll be able to get hold or it from most supermarkets – or even better local cheese shops. I serve mine with crusty bread, a handful of dried fruit (dates, figs, pear and raisins) and some sticky chilli jam.


La Fromagerie

One of London’s real gems is La Fromagerie, a fantastic cheese haven with two locations in Highbury and near Marylebone High Street. Both shops feature cheese maturing cellars and provide on-site affinage (a process of aging and improving cheeses) and walk in cheese rooms. The shops filled with everything you could imagine to create the perfect cheese board, from freshly baked breads and biscuits to jams, jellies and chutneys – which you can take home or enjoy in their tasting café (a complete sanctuary).


I was lucky enough to catch up with La Fromagerie’s Sarah Bilney to get her ponderings on the food, and she provided me with some interesting insights:


How has peoples taste in cheese changed in the past, say, decade?
“I’ve noticed that consumers have become more adventurous over the years, people are more willing to try out new products and sample flavours that they may previously have shied away from. Maybe they’ll have tried something they like while on holiday, and they’ll visit us to try and find something different. But there has also been a real resurgence in British cheese. People are taking an avid interest in products that can be sourced locally as they are concerned about food miles – also they just want to support British producers, which is great.”

How can you tempt someone to try something different?
"Cheese appreciation is different for everyone. It’s all about trying to understand new cheeses – the texture and flavour – to find out what you like. We sell come real crowd pleasers such as the Beaufort Chalet d’Alpage, which was actually the cheese that started the shop and is popular as ever. It has a really creamy, smooth flavour and is rich without being overpowering.
    "At La Fromagerie we sell a lot of cheeses that have come from small producers who have been making certain cheeses for years and years. It’s great to sell products that really have a history behind them, and it’s even better for us as we can provide people with accompanying wines and other items that have come from the same region and really match the cheeses. It gives people a bigger appreciation of what they are eating."

Have you got any tips for creating the perfectly balanced cheese board?
"Traditionally you choose five cheeses. Start with a young goats cheese, then a mellow blue, move onto something semi soft such as Camember followed by a hard cows cheese and a stronger melting blue to finish.
   "Team this with crisp biscuits – apples and pears are great accompaniment, too. But to go a step further, try figs with sheep’s milk products, plums and damsons go well with hard cheeses, and savoury jams and chutneys are a good all round accompaniment. I would also recommend including a range of almonds, walnuts and even cobnuts to introduce a variety of textures.
   "Cheese can be seasonal, too. For instance, for spring we have a lovely goats cheese from the Loire region, and have wines to match – this is a very light and mellow paring, where as you might want something more robust to serve in the winter."

For more information on La Fromagerie, visit www.lafromagerie.co.uk

It's the weekend, so make time for brunch

Brunch essential

It’s the weekend and after a busy few days at work there is nothing better than a lazy brunch with your friends to help you relax (this is literally what Sundays were made for). If you’re hosting a mid morning gathering, you need to make sure your stress levels are kept to a minimum so you can enjoy the day's indulgences.

Whatever you’re serving – from kedgeree to crumpets – there’s nothing better to wash it down with than a flavoursome Bloody Mary. It’s a traditional treat that’s stood the text of time and is as popular today as it has always been. Of course recipes vary depending on who’s making them or the bar you order them from, but as long as they are peppery and include a dash or horseradish, I’m happy. These are the versions I serve up at home in a long glass with plenty of ice…and a stick of celery to make it look healthy. This recipe should make five tall glasses worth, which is often just enough for me and a couple of friends

You will need

·        100ml Dry sherry

·        150ml Vodka

·        1 Litre Organic tomato juice

·        3 tsp Horseradish

·        1 tbsp Worcester sauce

·        Juice of half a lemon (keep the other half for serving)

·        1 tsp Celery salt

·        ½ tsp Black pepper

·        ½ tsp Cayenne pepper

·        1 tsp Tobasco sauce

·        To serve - celery sticks, ice, lemon slices and extra Tobasco

Method

Very simply, mix all the ingredients together in a large jug and top up with ice. Fill glasses with ice, a slice of lemon and a celery stick - then pour in the rich red cocktail.

The amount of celery salt, black pepper and Tobasco will vary depending on personal taste. This recipe is fairy mild, but as I like mine spicy I add extra Tobasco once poured.  

Eggcellent, eggstraordinary and a little eggsciting  

If there is one food that really makes me think of the weekend it’s eggs. I always have them on a Saturday morning, and I loved their versatility - I have them poached, fried, scrambled or en cocotte (if feeling posh). What’s more, there are extremely nutritious; high in protein, low in fat and only 80 calories each (on average).

I usually eat around six eggs a week, which makes up a miniscule proportion of the 11,512 Million that were eaten in the UK over 2011. Now that’s a lot of eggs. I also discovered that only 47% of these came from freerange sources…which I actually found quite sad.

I fully understand that there is a price difference between caged, barn and freerange eggs, and that is, of course, a sticking point for some people, but if there is anything I can do to encourage the others  – or just one other – to switch to freerange, I’d be delighted.

I can’t think of a better form of egg-propaganda then shamelessly plugging my favourite variety - the Old Cotswold Legbar. I first bought them for a completely silly, girly reason – they are blue, they looked pretty. But what I didn’t know was that behind the attractive, delicate shell was the most delicious yolk I have every tasted. Thw yolk is divine; bright deep orange and densely flavoured, almost buttery. 

To make the most of the gorgeous yolk I love to poach them and lay on top of a piece of smoked haddock, or simply fry them and serve up with freshly sliced ham and crusty bread. When I’m a millionaire I’ll serve them up with shavings of white truffle, yum.

Try them, I guarantee you’ll like them. You’ll feel guilt free too; happy hen, happy tummy.

To find out more about the eggs (as well as my second favourite, the Burford Brown) and their producers, visit www. http://www.clarencecourt.co.uk 

* An eggstra fact to test the freshness of an egg. Place the egg in a bowl of water, if it floats, it’s stale, and if it sinks, it’s fresh.  

www.hypersmash.com

Food for thought, or just thinking of food…

It’s Fairtrade Fortnight

One thing that really sways me to buy one product over another is if it is Fairtrade. I can’t think of a better way to ensure that the food we are eating comes from a well managed source that ensures famers are paid properly and have decent working conditions. It gives food producers the ability to have more control over their lives, and prevents them from being exploited. 

So, I'm giving this blog entry a mini theme of celebration, you should be celebrating this year's Fairtrade Fortnight  (27 February to 11 March 2012)by getting your hands on some Fairtrade produce and cooking up a storm.

I've asked lots of people what they thing of Fairtrade, and unfortunately some people wrongly believe that the only Fairtrade products available in the UK are bananas and coffee – in actual fact there is a myriad of items that you can get your hands on. Take a look at Divine Chocolate (www.divinechocolate.com) who have a vast range of extremely delicious looking treats on offer – their website has a great recipes section, too. I have fallen in love with the sound of the Sticky Peanut Butter Cake – I’m going to make one over the weekend, I’ll let you know how it goes (www.divinechocolate.com/recipes/cakes/Stickypeanutbuttercake.aspx).

You can get Fair trade wine and sprits too, and I’ve been tipped off that Stone Bridge’s selection are particularly good (www.stonebridgewine.com).
 

In addition to the products I have motioned, there are a whole host of others ­– you may be really surprised about what’s available, and you really should give something a go. Get some more information from www.fairtrade.org.uk

St David’s Day

I love any excuse for a celebratory meal, be it birthdays, anniversaries or just because I feel like indulging. But today, there is a very valid reason for grabbing some great British ingredients and cooking up a very Welsh dish in honour of St David’s Day.

I got introduced to a gorgeous hearty stew at a supper club I went to in January. Although my recipe may not be 100% authentic, it’s really delicious and perfect to gorge on while it is still chilly outside. 

 You will need:

• 900g of Welsh lamb
• 900g potatoes cut into large chunks
• Small glass of red wine
• 50g pearl barley
• 4 carrots (scliced)
• 3 parsnips
• 6 thickly sliced large shallots
• 1 peeled and chopped swede
• 3  large leeks chopped into chunks
• bouquet garni
• 1 tbsp chopped parsley
• 2 sprigs of thyme
• 10 Black peppercorns

Serves 4 very hungry people!

Method

Dice the lamb into big chunks before browning it in a large stewing pot. Pour over a glass of red wine and cook off the alcohol.

Add the barley, potatoes, carrots, parsnips and swede and then cover the ingredients in water. Bring to the boil

Throw in the bouquet garni, thyme and peppercorns and simmer the stew gently for 2 hours. 

Season the stew with a little salt and add the leaks, then continue to simmer for 10 minutes until they are soft.

Stir in the parsley just before plating up and serve with crusty bread. Delicious!

Just in time for Spring

I may have just missed Pancake Day….but…

Pancake day, or Shrove Tuesday for the traditionalists, may have been last week, but my friends, family and colleagues – still high on the lemon juice and sugar – can’t get them out of their minds. Which led me to think, why don’t we indulge in them more often? My favourite pancake recipe is a savoury one that can be enjoyed all year round. Have them for a luxurious breakfast treat, or a light lunch served with a simple salad.

Pesto pancakes (or green eggs and ham)

You will need:

80g basil pesto

1 large egg

90g spelt flour (you can use plain wheat flour, but spelt gives the pancakes a great texture)

175ml milk

6 slices of honey roast ham

1 tub of cream cheese

Handful of fresh basil leaves

Olive oil spray

Makes 6 pancakes

Method

• Sift the flour into a large bowl and whisk in the egg and milk. Once you have a good smooth consistency, stir in the pesto.
• Lightly spray a heavy-based frying pan with olive oil and heat over a medium flame.
• Ladle in approx 1/6 of the batter (just under a small ladle full) and swirl it round the pan so you get a thin even spread.
• Once the edges start lifting away from the sides, and the middle of the pancake bubbles up, turn the pancake over (or flip it if you’re brave enough).
• While the bottom is cooking, lay a slice of the ham over one side of the pancake and dot it with the cream cheese. Sprinkle with some torn basil leaves before folding the pancake in half and serving. 

Athletic-style fine dining

We all know the Olympics are coming to London later this year, and to cater for it a fantastic selection of amenities have popped up all over the east end of the city. Before Stratford gets overrun with a mix of sports fans, athletes and the media, make the most of the fantastic mix of new restaurants and cafes in the vicinity – they’ll no doubt be fully booked throughout the summer.

I’m a massive seafood and fish fan, so discovering Forman’s Olympic Stadium Restaurant was a real treat (www.formans.co.uk/restaurant). The building and decoration is cool and relaxed, with – of course – a magnificent view of the stadium. The service was great and the staff was happy to recommend dishes and wine – which meant we were able to sit back and enjoy ourselves.

I had the Wild Line-caught Sea Bass with Truffle Mash & Vanilla Froth, which I can only describe as stunning. I was a bit dubious about the vanilla froth, but its slightly sweet edge was perfect with the delicate fish and the perfume of the truffle. The highlight was definitely the mash – it was just delicious…and I’ve been craving it ever since.  I may try and recreate it myself using truffle oil. (I know it won’t be the same, but I really am craving it!)

We finished the meal on a high by sharing a golden syrup sponge. This was a great, old-fashioned pudding, which was as tasty as it was good looking. Served in a golden syrup tin, when we saw it arrive on the table next to us we couldn’t resist ordering one for ourselves.

All in all, it was a great meal. And, although I indulged in all the food groups I’d supposedly given up for lent…I’d do it again

This month’s must see

March marks a change of season, so we can wave goodbye to the cold winter months and celebrate all the joys of spring. To celebrate and get ready for Easter – as well as indulge in some seasonal shopping – I’m going to head down to the Business Design Centre in Islington to attend the Country Living Magazine Spring Fair (www.countrylivingfair.com/spring).

It’s a great event that I’ve enjoyed attending for the past few years. Running from the 21^st – 25^th March, the fair is a great place to stock up on home and lifestyle treats for spring – from clothes and jewellery to craft, furnishings and toiletries. However, what I’m looking forward to the most is the food hall. Each year the culinary stalls are bustling with artisan bakers, organic cheese makers, wine producers and enough sweet treats to keep you going until Christmas. And this year will be no different, in fact, there will be a number of new foodie exhibitors including Anila's Authentic Sauces (www.anilassauces.com), Teapigs (www.teapigs.co.uk) and Meadowsweet Flowers (www.meadowsweetflowers.co.uk) who make hand crystallised edible flowers – perfect for decorating an Easter cake.

Munchy Seeds are a regular at the show – I remember discovering them there three years ago (www.munchyseeds.co.uk). The company specalise in healthy, tasty snacks, that are great for taking to work or keeping in your bag for food on the go – but my favourite product is their Pumpkin Seed Oil. I buy a stock of it every time I visit the show, and have literally just finished my last bottle (perfect timing). The dark rich oil has a really dense toasted seed flavour, and is fantastically aromatic. It’s great as a salad dressing, swirled into soup or – my best tip – poured over diced butternut squash before roasting.